vintage patterns: silk shell #2

same pattern, new details.

the last time i used simplicity pattern 5836, it was to make a lined silk shell. i loved it so much, that i purchased some more vintage silk to make it again. this silk is a heavier weight that the previous, and lining it would make it too thick. not wanting to use the facings, i went with an easy solution: self binding the neckline and armholes. for instructions on how to cut self binding, check out the denim smock post.

i really liked the broken stripes along the selvage of the fabric, so when laying out the pattern pieces, i cut them across the grain so the stripes hit the hemline.

begin sewing the pattern as usual, creating the darts and stay stitching the neckline, shoulders and armholes. this prevents the fabric from stretching as you sew it.

because this top will be unlined, it's important to finish the interior seams. french seams are ideal- here's a really thorough video of how to sew french seams. i used a 1/4" seam allowance first, and then a 3/8" seam allowance to finish.

next up: inserting the invisible zip, binding the neckline and armholes, and hemming the bottom edge. no sweat!